Smalls Lighthouse Kayak 2022

Smalls Lighthouse kayak journeys are never casual coastal paddles.

Ten years after my first crossing, I found myself unloading boats at Whitesands in the dark once again — this time with Amy — preparing for another offshore push to the Smalls and this time on to Grassholm.

We packed carefully. Offshore journeys demand that. Then we started paddling towards St. David’s Head.

It all felt familiar. Yet at the same time, it felt very different.

The longest paddle I had done since my Nan went into hospital in January 2018 was probably no more than 20km. I also hadn’t spent longer than four hours in a kayak during that entire period. So although the route was known to me, the distance was not.

For detailed planning notes, tidal strategy and route considerations, see the main guide here:
👉 Kayaking to the Smalls Lighthouse – offshore route guide

Sunrise, Shearwaters and Rhythm

Shortly after rounding St. David’s Head, the sun rose behind us.

Before long, a single Manx shearwater joined us, circling for fifteen or twenty minutes. If you’ve followed my stories before, you may know that I’ve come to see these birds as messengers from my late brother. Therefore, to have one stay alongside at the very start of this journey felt significant.

Those quiet moments help settle the mind. Offshore paddling is as much about rhythm as it is about strength.

A little over an hour in, porpoise crossed ahead of us. Further out, hundreds of birds gathered in what looked like a feeding frenzy. We hoped for dolphins. Instead, we watched young gulls and gannets diving, with razorbills and even a puffin among them.

Gradually, more gannets appeared. Occasionally we could see the Smalls lighthouse ahead. However, it is remarkably easy to lose sight of it once you glance away — perhaps that’s my eyesight, or perhaps it really is that small.

Adjusting the Bearing on a Smalls Lighthouse Kayak Trip

After two hours we realised we were further north than expected. So we adjusted our bearing and continued steadily. A Smalls Lighthouse kayak trip is less about speed and more about steady bearing and timing.

Slowly, details emerged. The colour of the tower. The helicopter pad. The reef beneath it. Yet, much like walking toward a distant summit, it did not seem any closer.

And then suddenly, it was.

Smalls Lighthouse on the kayak trip in 2022 — Smalls Lighthouse

Standing 41 metres tall in open ocean, with land barely visible, the Smalls Lighthouse still feels improbable when you reach it.

We took the obligatory photographs. However, we only stopped for thirty minutes. We had arrived an hour later than planned — less tidal assistance than forecast, and a light headwind — and we still hoped to reach Grassholm.

Adding Grassholm

Reaching Grassholm meant “bagging” the final Pembrokeshire island for me. It also meant that Amy became the first female paddler, as far as we are aware, to reach both the Smalls and Grassholm by sea kayak.

More importantly, though, our decision was strategic.

When Stuart and I had kayaked to the Smalls a decade earlier, the return journey took almost twice as long as the outward leg. Therefore, this time we aimed to use the final push of the ebb to carry us closer to the mainland before turning.

Although that meant paddling further from our intended landing, it would — we hoped — save time later.

Fortunately, it worked.

Our return ended up being only one hour longer than the outward journey.

Around Grassholm

Even so, the tide did not take us as far south as expected. For a moment, I thought we would be forced to go north of Grassholm. However, on the west side of the island we found an eddy that allowed us to slip around exactly as planned.

From there, Carn Llidi became our sunlit beacon home.

We rode small wind swell in the same direction as our travel. It felt like “sweet sailing home”. A few muscles reminded me I had not done this in a long time, but overall the paddling felt steady.

Water surface changes signalled where deeper seas became shallower. None of the overfalls amounted to much on this occasion, and we crossed them comfortably.

Passing west of Ramsey Island, we could clearly make out “the elephant” profile from a distance. Soon after, we rounded the north side and crossed into Whitesands Bay — twelve hours after we had left.

Back at the Beach

The sun set as we packed up.

Later, fish and chips with Neil finished the day properly.

It felt good to return to the Smalls. It felt even better to do it in good company.

And as far as we are aware, Amy became the first woman to sea kayak to either the Smalls and Grassholm.

Offshore Perspective

This journey was very different from our first trip to the Smalls a decade earlier. Every Smalls Lighthouse kayak journey teaches something different about distance, pacing and judgement offshore. If you’re interested in the original 2012 crossing, including the full offshore commitment and navigation through the Bishops and Clerks, you can read that here:

👉 Kayaking to the Smalls Lighthouse – offshore route guide

For paddlers building toward longer crossings, understanding timing, tides and when not to go matters far more than ambition. I explore that further in:

👉 When not to go sea kayaking

And if you’re developing offshore skills in a structured way:

👉 Sea kayaking courses in Pembrokeshire