Return to the Smalls (including Grassholm)

10 years and some weeks since Stuart and I had kayaked to the Smalls I found myself in the dark again at Whitesands as I unloaded the kayaks, this time with Amy. We packed them up with everything we might need and started the paddle out to St. David’s Head,

It all felt very familiar yet at the same time, very different. The longest paddle I had done since my Nan went into hospital in January 2018, was probably only 20k and I hadn’t sat in a kayak for anymore than 4 hours during that same time.

The sun came up behind us soon after we left St David’s Head and we were quickly joined by a single Manx Shearwater who circled us for a good fifteen to twenty minutes. If you have followed my stories before you may know that I have come to see these beautiful birds as messengers from my late brother; and to have a single one spend so much time alongside at the start of our journey was truly special. The memories help me settle into the steady rhythm needed for an open water journey.

A little over an hours kayaking a few porpoise passed in front of us, confirming this was going to be the trip it should be. And on the horizon in front of us were hundreds of birds in what look like a feeding frenzy. We hoped for dolphins but it was not to be. Most of the birds were young gulls and gannets; a few razorbills and a puffin too.

The more we paddled, the more gannets we saw and it wasn’t long before we could sometimes see the Smalls lighthouse we were aiming for. It is very easy to lose sight of where it was when you look away and then look back again; or maybe that’s my eyes getting older!

After two hours we decided we were much further north than we expected, adjusted our bearing and just kept on paddling. Details on the light house became clearer, the colour, the helicopter landing pad on it’s top, the rocky reef on which it stands. Yet, just like walking to the next peak, it didn’t seem any closer.

And then suddenly, it’s right there.

“????????? 135m ??????? tall, standing in the middle of the ocean, land barely in sight and looking magnificent.

The obligatory photos were taken and then a quick half hour stop (we arrived an hour later than expected due to less tidal assistance than expected and a bit of a headwind we decided) because we also hoped to take in Grassholm!

As well as “bagging” the last of the Pembrokeshire islands for me to kayak to, and Amy becoming the first female paddler to have reached either the Smalls and Grasholm, we hoped to gain time on the return journey by using the end of the ebb to get closer to the mainland and save ourselves time, even though it meant travelling further from our intended destination. When Stuart and I kayaked to the Smalls it took twice the time to return as it did to get there.

Our plan worked well as our return was only one hour longer than the journey out.

Even so, the tide didn’t take us as far south as expected and, despite adjusting our bearing, I thought we’re going to have to go North at Grassholm. Happily though we found an eddy on the west side of the island which help us to kayak around the right side of Grassholm as we had planned.

We followed the sunlit beacon that was Carn Lidl as we left Grassholm and headed for Whitesands, it really was “sweet sailing home” as we rode the the small wind swell waves that were running in the same direction as we were paddling. A few muscles were starting to let me know that I hadn’t done this in a very long time but generally the paddling was good.

And of course those views were as amazing as always.

The Gannets were soon left behind and we could clearly see the water surface changes telling us when we were crossing from deeper to shallower seas. None of the overfalls amounted to much on this occasion and we merrily breezed across the top of them.

Passing the west side of Ramsey Island we could clearly see the elephant from this distance and it was easy paddling around the north side of the island, across into Whitesands Bay 12 hours after we left.

The sun set as we packed up our kit and then a well earned fish and chip supper with Neil finished the day of nicely.

It was fantastic to return the Smalls and Amy has become the first female kayaker to reach the Smalls and Grassholm, as far as we are aware.